Linn Ittok Lv Ii Manual

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Below you will found our manuals on the Linn Ittok LV-2. The owners manual is used as an reference guide, instruction manual and instruction book. Linn Ittok-LV-2 Owners Manual. Download the Linn Ittok-LV-2 Owners Manual. Hifi-Manuals uses Cookies exclusively to gather anonymous data that help us improve the website. This data is collected. The SME doesn't work optimally on the Linn, giving a lazy, fat-bassed sound, though the beauty of its midrange still shines through. Christopher Breunig has found the WTA to sound stunningly natural on the Linn, but it has insufficient low-frequency extension, in my opinion. (The rear of the armtube also sticks out far enough that the turntable lid can no longer be used, something that would.

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Linn Ittok LVII Problem & Setup Question

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Hi All,
Just bought a Grado Reference Platinum for my 1987 Linn LP 12/Valhalla/Ittok LVII/Linn Basik Cart. and have the following setup questions/existing problem:
1. A screw on the bottom of the armtube rubs against the top screw of the lift mechanism rest if I bring the arm back too low after playback. Is this normal ?
2. How do I adjust the VTA/arm height on the Ittok? Do I have to remove the baseboard to do this?
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3. Is it necessary to remove the arm when tightening the cartridge to avoid bearing damage? If so how?
The tools I have going into this are the HI FI news and record review test LP, accompanying protractor, the Shure SFG 2 and Thorsten's detailed instructions.
Thanks for your input,
Binayak

Follow Ups:

Re: Linn Ittok LVII Problem & Setup Questionsduraybito10:20:50 11/17/00 (1)
If you have a dining room table that slides apart for extension leaves, pull it apart just wide enough to set your LP-12 on its edges. Great, cheap way to service the 'table from below.
Siegfried
- Just make sure it is level and rigid, unlike most dining room tables.mspc11:49:20 11/17/00 (0)
  I don't subscribe to this kind of recommendation because using a poor support when doing LP12 setup what you generally end up with is much less than satisfactory soncially and the LP12 gets blamed for the results. If you are going to own a table of this quality, not to mention $, and expect similar results invest some time, effort and a few $ to accomplish that. It is fun if done right, worse than a waste of time if not.
Re: Linn Ittok LVII Problem & Setup Questionmspc12:18:30 11/16/00 (0)
(1) The two small screws that hold the arm tube onto the bearing section. Normally if you use the cueing arm they will not hit the setscrew that attaches the cueing armrest to the lift cylinder, but they are very close when the arm is clipped in place.

(3) Do Not attempt to remove or remount a cartridge on the Ittok unless you remove the arm from the LP12 first. You will damage the bearing if you try it.
(2) As mentioned before, this adjustment is made using the arm post set screw. Remember that when you make this adjustment you may affect the LP12 set up as well. The set up, spring adjustment, should be done after the arm height is set properly (due to the tonearm cable) and the arm is balanced with the cartridge in place (the counterweight is where it will be normally). So overhang, arm height, VTA, VTF (balancing the arm with the cartridge in place) and all other adjustments of the cartridge should be finished first. There was an earlier posting where a member (whose name escapes me, I'm sorry, but search for it and his name will come up) had indicated that he would send a setup manual to those who requested it. Get one, it is invaluable and will provide you with detailed instructions as how to go about the setup, but I will caution you that for the inexperienced owner this can be a challenge and often very frustrating. Just be patient and keep trying. It really is fun.
You will also need some metric allen wrenches and a spirit level. See the manual. Otherwise you have the basic tools to accomplish the arm setup, but you do need to get at the underside of the turntable to do most of this so you need to come up with some sort of stand to put the table on while you do this.
One suggestion for accomplishing access to the underside of the LP12, assuming you are putting the LP12 on at 'Turntable Table' type stand. Cut a board, a 'setup shelf', the exact dimensions to fit in place of the normal 'Turntable Table' shelf. The material used for this setup shelf is not critical and could be much thicker than the normal shelf. It needs to be flat and sturdy enough to support the LP12 without flexing after you have removed the center of the setup shelf.
Then using a jig saw, cut out the center of this setup shelf roughly the size of the LP12, less about 1-2' (3-5cm), all the way around (in other words, the cutout would be 1-2” smaller than the bottom of the LP12 plinth) to allow you access to the underside of the table when you have the LP12 on it. If you are really good, and have a drill press, you might even drill out depressions to allow the LP12 feet to rest in place, just deep enough to keep the LP12 from sliding around, but not so deep as to allow the LP12 plinth to rest directly on the setup shelf. Do your adjustments to the LP12 while it is on the turntable stand with this setup shelf in place. After you have completed your adjustments, remove the LP12, replace the setup shelf with your normal shelf, and replace the LP12. Since your setup is done on the very site it will normally be used in, it is as good as it will get. It also gives you the opportunity to double-check your turntable table setup as well. Is it level, does it rock at all?
Hope this longwinded posting helps.
Mike
Re: Linn Ittok LVII Problem & Setup QuestionRichard P11:13:02 11/16/00 (5)
Hello:
1) Yes, on an Ittok of sufficient age, when the tonearm was glued and screwed, as opposed to just glued (like the Ekos), the screw on the armtube will hit the cueing platforn. This also sometimes makes it difficult to accurately hit the groove when placing the needle in the groove, as occasionally the tonearm will 'slide' off the screw when being lowered.
2) The VTA is adjusted using the allen set screw located on the right-hand side of the arm mounting collar, which is bolted to the armboard. This is accessible from the top of the table, hence there is no need to remove the baseboard when adjusting VTA..but if you're changing cartridges, you'll need to remove the baseboard.
3) It is ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL to remove the arm from the table before changing the cartridge. Failure to do so WILL result in bearing damage to the tonearm - that would be bad. To remove the tonearm, you'll have to remove the baseboard. Remove the outer platter, and preferably the inner platter, cap the bearing well and tilt the table up to remove the baseboard. After removal, disconnect the tonearm cable from the bottom of the tonearm, being sure to loosen the very tiny allen set screw that is used to firmly hold the tonearm cable in position. Set the table back in the upright position, and loosen the VTA set screw (see #2 above) enough to allow the whole arm to be removed. Use a rubber band to gently hold the tonearm to the cueing mechanism (the Ittok LVII had no integrated armrest like the Ekos or even the Ittok LVIII (later production versions)).

-Richard
- Re: Linn Ittok LVII Problem & Setup QuestionBinayak Bhattacharyya11:33:07 11/16/00 (4)
  Hi Richard,
  If I remove the arm before removing the old cartridge and installing the new one, how do I perform all the adjustments overhang, alignment,
  etc.? Surely the arm will not be correctly in position when held on by a rubber band to the cueing mechanism?
  Regards,
  Binayak
  - Re: Linn Ittok LVII Problem & Setup QuestionRichard P12:14:39 11/16/00 (3)
    No, obviously not. The rubber band is simply to hold the tonearm immobile while it is off the table having its new cartridge installed. Personally, I mount the cartridge, headshell leads, etc, and then just barely snug the the headshell bolts enough to allow me to move the cartridge for alignment purposes. In other words, not too tight, but just loose enough to allow some degree of movement by hand - you want to be able to move the cartridge by hand, yet have it retain its aligned position when you remove the tonearm to tighten the headshell bolts. Using your cartridge protractor, and placing the tonearm back on the table (don't bother with the tonearm cable, or for that matter an exact VTA, tracking weight, antiskating, etc..although these should all be at least somewhat close), do the alignment of the catridge. This is an unfortunate, cruel, endless task, requiring a steady hand, lots of cursing and above all else, patience. You'll have to really fiddle with overhang on the Grado. My experience with them on the Ittok indicates that you'll have just enough room on the headshell to get the overhang correct. After a couple/few hours doing the alignment, re-remove the tonearm, being extra careful not to upset your aligned position and do the final tightening of the headshell bolts. Put the arm back on the table, double re-check the alignment to make sure it wasn't upset in the final tightening and take care of the rest of the cartridge setup - tracking weight, antiskating, VTA, suspension, etc.. All in all, I find a cartridge swap to take me about 4-7 hours, depending on the cartridge, and my degree of both hand steadiness and patience on any given day.
    -Richard
    - Absolutely spot on Richard - Binayak take note (nt) Mike C 00:46:44 11/17/00 (0)
      .
    - Re: Linn Ittok LVII Problem & Setup QuestionBinayak Bhattacharyya12:27:15 11/16/00 (1)
      Looks like I have my work cut out! Just one final question, what size allen keys will I require for the two nuts you mentioned? I have a biker's set, I'm not sure those will suffice.
      Thanks for all your help.
      Regards,
      Binayak
      - Re: Linn Ittok LVII Problem & Setup QuestionRichard P12:41:54 11/16/00 (0)
        In Reply to: Re: Linn Ittok LVII Problem & Setup Question posted by Binayak Bhattacharyya on November 16, 2000 at 12:27:15:
        Alas, it all depends on vintage of Ittok. The VTA screw is either 4mm or 4.5mm (Sears has this size - very uncommon). The itty-bitty tonearm grub screw is 1mm or less (I don't have the Allen handy, or I'd measure it), and is also used to change the height of the cueing well. An inclusive set of metrics going from approximately the diameter of a couple of hairs up to 5mm should take care of all your needs. Have fun and think of how worthwhile it'll all be when you're done!
        -Richard
Re: Linn Ittok LVII Problem & Setup QuestionAl Fox10:23:47 11/16/00 (0)
Binayak,
Not sure about the answer to #1.
To adjust VTA and the Ittok, there is a set screw on the outside,
near the pillar, that allows you to loosen the collar and adjust
VTA. You don't have to remove the armboard.

I would you to just attach the cartridge with the arm in place.
I never could get the overhang right with the Grado on my old
Ittok.

-Al

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